INTRODUCTION

The Maldives is a group of islands located in the Indian Ocean about 400 km south west of India. It consists of a double chain of twenty six atolls. The atolls are composed of live coral reefs and sand bars. It is the smallest Asian country in terms of population and land area. The islands are surrounded by turquoise waters which turn deep blue as you go away from the islands. The beaches are white and sandy. It is the lowest country in the world with an average ground elevation of about 1.5 metres above sea level.

The Portuguese ruled the islands for about fifteen years during the mid 16^th century. Then the Dutch ruled for a brief period during the mid 17^th century. The islands became a British Protectorate from 1887 to 1965. Maldives gained independence from the British in 1965 and became a Republic in 1968.

The local population is about 300,000. Out of a total of 1,192 islands only about 200 are inhabited. The local language is Dhivehi and Islam is the only religion. The people are Sunni Muslims.

Sailors and Traders from Arabia, Africa, Europe, India and Sri Lanka visited the islands and influenced the people. Tourism and Fishing are the largest industries today. Male is the capital and the largest city with a population of about 100,000.

MALE'

I landed at Male International Airport in January 2002. The airport is on a small island called Hulhule. It is close to Male. The Indian Airlines flight from Trivandrum took about one hour. I was among a group of teachers recruited from India. Some officials from the Maldives Ministry of Education met us at the airport. We had to take a ferry from the airport to Male. I was amazed by the turquoise waters, it looked so beautiful. Our accommodation was arranged at Athama Palace, a centrally located hotel.

On the next day, we visited the Ministry of Education. We were informed about our postings. I was posted at Raa Meedhoo an island in Raa Atoll. They also gave us an idea of what to expect in the Maldives. They told us that we are not allowed to discuss religion and that the students cannot be given any physical punishment. The Ministry held our passport. We had to deposit an amount of money to get it back, in case we wanted to leave the Maldives unexpectedly.

Male is the biggest island in the Maldives. If you are at the centre of the island, you can reach any place in Male by walking for about fifteen minutes. It is safe city. Crime is rare but there are a few drug addicts who engage in theft. There is no bus service and I did not see any big trucks. There are taxis and small pickup trucks. There are plenty of two wheelers on the streets. Automobiles are imported but there are no automobile showrooms.

I noticed that the shops closed for about fifteen minutes during the call to prayer. In the smaller shops, customers are told to hurry up with their purchase since they have to close. In the bigger shops, customers already inside are allowed to continue shopping but new customers are not allowed in during the prayer time.

STO Trade Centre is the biggest Supermarket. There are many souvenir shops selling handicrafts, corals, T-shirts etc. They are popular with the tourists. There are some shops selling diving gear. Maldives is famous for its diving spots.

There are several old buildings in Male. The Hukuru Miskiiy or Friday Mosque was built in 1656 during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar I. Close by is a gleaming white minaret called Munnaru. It is a circular tower like structure built in 1675. The chief muezzin of Male called the faithful to prayer from this minaret before the Islamic Centre was built. Opposite the Hukuru Miskiiy is the Medhu Ziyaarath, the shrine of Abu al Barakaath Yusuf al Barbari, a North African who is believed to have converted the Maldives to Islam in AD 1153. There is a National Museum which displays items from a glorious bygone era. Sultan Ghazee Mohammed Thakurufaanu is the greatest national hero. He liberated the country from Portuguese rule. A tomb is erected in his memory. The Presidential Palace is called Mulee-Aage.

The local currency is the Rufiya. Dhiraagu is the mobile phone service provider. Initially the SIM card was expensive and caller ID was available only at extra cost. When a rival company started functioning the cost of SIM card went down and caller ID was available for free.

Most of the expatriate teachers, doctors and nurses were from India. Cheap labour from Bangladesh was used in construction and farming.

The only Coca Cola factory in the world that uses desalinated water is in the Maldives. There are local TV and Radio stations in Male. You can listen to English songs for about one hour daily on the local radio. Local TV programs are in the Dhivehi language but they do have news in English. Cable TV and DTH service are also available.

The local bank is the Bank of Maldives. Other banks include State Bank of India, HSBC, Bank of Ceylon and Habib Bank. The two main hospitals are Indira Gandhi Memorial Hospital (IGMH) and ADK Hospital. There are several hotels but most Indians stayed at the Athama Palace or Buruneege Residence. The rooms are air conditioned. They place about five mattresses on the floor of each room. It was my first experience sharing a room with strangers. I realised that Male is a small island and space comes at a premium. Moreover the tourists drive the costs up. There is a big park in Male, called the Jumhooree Maidan, where people relax in the evenings. At the east end of the park there is a huge flag pole with a large national flag fluttering in the wind. We can see many speed boats of varying sizes in the sea nearby. Near the park there is a large mosque which is a part of the Islamic Centre.

A submarine service is available for tourists. It is called the whale submarine. You can go under the sea and look at the fishes from the submarine. Some people told me about an artificial beach in Male. I was disappointed when I saw it. It was not worth the walk. I noticed that the locals don’t cross the road till the traffic lights indicate that they can, even when there is no traffic. It is surprising for an Indian.

The local boats called dhonis are anchored near the fish market. Bigger dhonis are used to transport goods and carry passengers. Smaller dhonis are used for fishing. If you walk into the fish market you can see different types of fish. Tuna is the most common fish. Sometimes you can see big swordfishes too. There is a fruit and vegetable market near the fish market. The post office is also located in this area.

After spending two days in Male, I was woken up at 2 am by the officials from the Ministry of Education and told to board a boat to Raa Meedhoo. The boat was a dhoni. A fellow traveller advised me to get a bottle of water since the journey would take about eight hours. I bought the water, boarded the dhoni and found a place to sleep. The boat started for Raa Medhoo at about 8 am. The boatmen gave us some biscuits and tea. Later on they gave us some noodles for lunch. The boat had a stop at Baa Eydhafushi to unload some cargo. I got down and sat on a bench till they finished unloading and resumed the journey. Along the way I saw some dolphins jumping out of the water and also some flying fish.

RAA MEEDHOO

We reached Raa Meedhoo at about 3 pm. There was another Indian on the boat who was also posted at Raa Meedhoo. Three officials from Raa Atoll Education Centre met us at the boat jetty. One of them was wearing a tie. I introduced myself and thought that the man wearing the tie must be the senior person. Later on, I came to know that he was wearing the tie because he works in the afternoon shift. The other two were in the morning shift and were not on duty at 3 pm. They arranged to transport our luggage to the school and provided us accommodation at the school guest house. We had tea and snacks at the Principal’s house. Later that evening they took us around to see the rooms that were available on rent. We had dinner with some Indians who were already working there.

Next morning, we again had a look at the available rooms. I decided to take a room at a house called Venelaage. It had a small kitchen and toilet attached. The house owner agreed to provide me with roshi as breakfast at extra cost. Roshi was something like the chapatti.

There were a few shops on the island selling essential items. Bread, fruits and vegetables were available only once a week when the dhoni arrived from Male. The locals did not consume much vegetable but the Indians rushed to get them as soon as it arrived. The shops do not have a shutter. Late at night they lock the doors but you can still see what is inside the shops through the glass windows. People are honest and there is no theft. Moreover, everybody knows each other on the island and it is difficult to leave the island without being noticed. It is a small island with a population of about 2000 people. You can reach any part of the island by walking for a few minutes.

Locals work at the school or government offices. Some work at tourist resorts as waiters and receptionists. Others go for fishing. Most of them were not highly educated. They are a friendly people and usually invite us for weddings and other functions even if they do not know us. The common food is rice or roshi with tuna curry. We had celebrations in the staff room at Raa Atoll Education Centre whenever a new recruit was appointed or when someone got a raise. Everyone was provided with snacks and cold drinks.

There was an old building in Raa Meedhoo that looked like the remains of a Hindu temple. I noticed the roof tiles were manufactured by ‘Quilon Tile Company’ in Kerala. In the ancient days ships arrived and left after a few weeks or months. Some sailors stayed back and married locals. When they decided to set sail again they left behind their wives and children. This may be the reason that the locals have less emotion. I once asked a local how many brothers he had. He counted on his fingers and said ‘seven’. A few seconds later he said ‘no nine’. It seems two of his brothers left home long ago to work on ships. One day I saw a local teacher at work just after attending his father’s funeral.

There was a small health centre in Raa Meedhoo which sometimes had a doctor and a nurse. Once I had to go to a nearby island called Ungoofaaru to see a doctor. There was a hospital on that island. The Pearl Island Resort is near Raa Meedhoo. Most of the tourists who stayed there were Italians. They visited Raa Meedhoo on Saturdays to see an inhabited island and also to do some shopping. Tourist shops and roadside stalls selling handicrafts, T-Shirts, paintings, shells, corals etc. open only for a few hours on Saturdays when the tourists arrive. Friday and Saturday are holidays. The week begins on Sunday. There was no post office on the island. A shop acted as a postal agent. If you wanted to post a letter you had to give it to the shopkeeper.

The people are calm and quiet. They never raise their voice. Students rarely fight. There was no police station. Disputes are settled by the island chief who is elected by the islanders. Once we found a gold chain but the locals told us to leave it where we found it. They said the person who lost it will come looking for it. Students leave their calculators on their desk when they go home for the break. Nobody steals it.

A new school building was constructed with Japanese aid. There were Japanese volunteers working in several schools in the Maldives. They were called Japan Overseas Co-operation Volunteers (JOCV). Most of them were engaged in physical education.

A young boy died while playing on the streets of the island. He and his friends were hanging onto a moving pickup truck. He fell from the moving truck and was injured. He died while being taken to the hospital on a boat. The island had only two small pickup trucks. His father a shopkeeper told me that it was fate that this happened on an island with so little traffic.

A large statue of a fish was put up near the boat jetty. At night it was illuminated from the bottom. The fishery science teacher told me the fish was a marlin. Fishing boats arriving with their catch would unload at the fish market and people would come to make their purchases. A small shelter was built near the boat jetty. I used to sit there in the evening after dinner. There was a TV in the shelter and sometimes I watched the news there. The area was developed like a park with gardens and benches for people to sit. A few small shops sold snacks and tea.

I was living on a small island surrounded by the sea and did not know how to swim. I had to learn. I first learnt to float facing down. Later, I could float facing up which was more comfortable since I could breathe while floating. I felt confident in the water after learning to float and started to swim a little. Sometimes we went swimming as a group. Most of the time, I went alone since I was just learning and needed the practice. We went swimming on the side of the island which was opposite to the boat jetty. The water was clear and calm. One morning, while I was going for swimming, a friend told me to be careful since the sea was rough that day. I did not understand but when I entered the water, I realised he was correct. The strong waves made it difficult to swim. I had to return after spending a few minutes trying to swim. A local advised me not to go swimming alone. He told me he once developed cramps while swimming and managed to get out of the water because he had a friend with him who helped him. One day while we were in the sea a large manta ray passed by circling us. It was shocking since we did not expect it to come to shallow waters. We were relieved when it went away. On another day, I saw a large number of red transparent organisms washed ashore. They looked something like large prawns. They were dead. Some locals said they were poisonous.

Some of the Indian Teachers were cunning. One of them wanted a leave to go to India. He met the Principal and told him that he wanted to conduct extra classes. The Principal was happy and told him to go ahead. One week later he met the Principal and said he needed to go to India urgently. It was now difficult for the Principal to refuse to grant the leave. Another Teacher used to correct students note books at night in the staff room. When I met him there one night he asked me if I had seen the Principal. I told him that I did not see him. He then said that the Principal usually comes at this time. I realised then that he was correcting the books at this time just to show the Principal that he was hardworking.

Each time we went home for our annual vacation or returned after the vacation the local teachers, supervisors and headmasters would carry our luggage and load it onto pickup trucks. They were very helpful. The local ladies keep the island clean. They go around cleaning the place during the weekends.

During Maumoon Abdul Gayoom’s Presidency, there was a fear among the locals. People spied on one another and reported to the President and his men. Some locals who visited me used to close the door before they said anything against the President. In those days Presidential elections were held with no opposition candidates. Voters had a right to say only ‘Yes’ or ‘No’ to Gayoom’s rule. When the results were out President Gayoom got approval ratings of more than 90 percent. Obviously something was wrong.

When the US invaded Iraq, the school imposed a power cut. Fans were allowed only for a few hours per day in the afternoon. There was a staff meeting which was held outdoors to avoid using electricity. The principal informed us that the Maldivian economy had taken a hit due to the war. He told us that tourist arrivals had fallen. Tourists prefer not to travel during a war. Tourism is Maldives biggest industry. Cost saving measures also included cancellation of overtime work for which we were paid extra.

The choice of food was limited on the island. A local bakery sold bread but it did not taste good and had a yellow colour. Few people bought it. We got good bread when the boat arrived from Male once a week. Sometimes I had to eat crackers with margarine, honey or cheese for breakfast. Oats and corn flakes were available too. Locals preferred roshi for breakfast. Good fruit juice was available. I had roshi and potato curry for lunch. Sometimes I made spaghetti. When I had rice, I made a curry to go with it. Fish was easily available but locally canned tuna was more convenient. Most shops stocked baked beans. Occasionally, the boat from Male brought Chicken and sausages. Dinner was mostly noodles. We had a get together once a week, when the expatriates took turns to organise a party.

Most houses had high walls with a wooden door at the entrance. It may be Portuguese influence. Coconut, breadfruit and drumstick trees can be seen on the island. Locals use them in their cooking.

Chairs made of pipe and plastic rope were seen everywhere. The pipes were welded together to form a frame around which the plastic rope was tied in a diagonal pattern. The chairs usually seat four people. It was comfortable sitting on the plastic rope. These kinds of chairs are seen in almost all islands.

Most local men wore western clothes. Some women wore a local dress that covered their head. A few older men wore a lungi at home. There were no arranged marriages. Teenagers go on dates.

During November 2005, I was informed that I was transferred to Baa Eydhafushi. After four years in Raa Meedhoo, I would begin 2006 at Baa Eydhafushi. 

BAA EYDHAFUSHI

I was provided an air ticket on Indian Airlines from Trivandrum to Male for late December 2005. The academic year would start only in mid January 2006. To avoid spending idle days on the island, I tried to change the date of my flight. Indian Airlines informed me that all flights for the next few weeks were fully booked and it was not possible to change the flight date. I bought another ticket on Sri Lankan Airlines. Only first class tickets were available and I had to pay extra for it. There was a stopover at Colombo and I reached Male in the evening. No rooms were available at Athama Palace. They suggested I try Buruneege Residence. I got a room there. 

Next day, I visited the Ministry of Education and deposited my passport as required. They gave me a receipt and arranged my travel to Baa Eydhafushi. When I got on the speed boat, I met two other expatriates who were headed for the same island. They were Sri Lankans. We reached Baa Eydhafushi in the evening. The island is located in Baa Atoll. There was nobody to receive us. I realised then, that I could not expect the same kind of hospitality that I was used to in Raa Meedhoo.

The Sri Lankans who were returning after their vacation arranged a room for me. It was a big room with a toilet and a small kitchen. There was something amiss. The room was cleaned a few minutes before my arrival. There were cracks on the walls and cockroaches were coming out of the cracks. I told the owner about it and they sprayed some insecticide. I did not like the room and had to find a better place to stay. Later on, I came to know that the owner of the building was an administrator of the Baa Atoll Education Centre. He had told the Sri Lankans to take me to this room.

A few days later, I located a better room in a building called Violet Villa. I packed my bags and arranged a taxi that night. I paid my dues and left for the new room. I would stay there for the next four years.

Baa Atoll Education Centre is located at the centre of the island. There was a Mosque nearby and a burial ground across the road. The Principal was an overseas educated Maldivian. On some days, he would stand at the gate to welcome the staff and students in the morning. He would shake hands with them and wish them ‘good morning.’ When he was free, he would sit with us in the staff room and discuss school matters. He expected everyone to speak English fluently. Those who were not fluent were transferred. Sometimes new recruits who did not meet his expectations were sent back to the ministry without being given a chance to enter the classroom. On Teacher’s day, there was a party and a buffet dinner. I saw the principal handing out plates to all the guests.

In the report book under the heading ‘conduct’ there were three options for the class teachers to choose from. They were ‘excellent’, ‘good’ and ‘needs improvement.’ The principal insisted that all students should be given excellent or good. He felt he was encouraging all the students. 

One day, I saw a Sri Lankan lady teacher in casual dress correcting student’s assignments in the staff room. The supervisor asked her to go to class, since she had a class at that time. She told the supervisor that she was on leave and will not be going to the class. We could not understand how a person on leave could be correcting assignments in the staff room.

I saw one Indian Teacher marking the student’s examination papers in the staff room. He placed one marked paper aside and told me that student got the highest marks. He also said that student is the daughter of a high official in the school. I was surprised since he had not marked the other papers yet. He had obviously decided to give the highest marks to this student to please the high official.

Baa Eydhafushi had a population of about 2000 people. It was a small island and you could reach anywhere on the island by walking a few minutes. It was more developed than Raa Meedhoo. There was a bank, a post office and a hospital. There were a few small restaurants and several shops. A few taxis and pickup trucks were also available. They had a police station, a radio station and two mobile phone towers. There was a small movie theatre.

Whenever we left for vacation or returned after vacation, we had to make our own arrangements to transport our luggage. Unlike in Raa Meedhoo, the local staff provided no help. Also expatriates were generally not invited to weddings and other functions on the island. Sometimes an invitation to a wedding was placed on the notice board. In Raa Meedhoo, they used to personally invite each expatriate for weddings.

We visited the Bank of Maldives on the island once a month, when our salary was credited to our account. We withdrew some money for our use and arranged to transfer some amount to our accounts in India. The staff at the bank was polite and efficient. 

The hospital was located on the western side of the island. It was a small hospital with about ten beds. Doctors were mostly from India. There were a few Maldivian and Russian doctors as well. It was a clean and neat place. Once, I had a fever and consulted a Maldivian doctor at the hospital. I think I had chickengunya. A small white mosquito bit me. I killed it but felt a reaction in my body. It was not a usual mosquito bite. The doctor prescribed some tablets to be taken for a few days. I asked him for a leave letter. He told me to meet him after I get well. It took about five days for me to recover. I then realised that he knew a one day leave letter would not be sufficient. There were no dentists on the island. When I had a toothache, I had to visit Male to see a dentist.

In 2008 a new principal took charge. He was an Indian. He kept aloof for a few days and then started building a close relationship with a select group of teachers. He never entered the staff room and had a different attitude. His communication with the teachers was mostly through the head of departments.

I never went swimming in Baa Eydhafushi. The water was not clean. People threw waste into the sea. I tried swimming at the boat jetty but it was too deep for me. I was not a good swimmer. Football is the most popular sport in the Maldives. The English Premier League is widely followed. Their favourite teams were Manchester United, Chelsea and Liverpool. In Baa Eydhafushi you can see the emblems of these teams painted on the walls. During the world cup large screens are set up outside and people watch the matches together through the night. 

It was during my stay at Baa Eydhafushi that the Maldivian Democratic Party (MDP) grew in popularity and its leader Mohammed Nasheed won the election to become the new president. People expected more freedom and less corruption. Though the people are generally not corrupt, some of the earlier political leaders were suspected to have diverted government funds to their personal accounts. President Gayoom’s photo which was hanging on the walls of every government office was taken down when he lost the election.

During the end of 2009, I submitted my resignation and informed the authorities that I would not be returning for the next academic year. I had spent four years in Baa Eydhafushi.

TSUNAMI - 2004

My vacation ended early in 2004 and I had to return to Maldives on 21^st December 2004. Usually I return after Christmas and New Year. I tried to change the date of my flight but was informed that all the flights during the end of December and early January were full.

At the airport, I met a friend and on landing at Male, we decided to take a room together. Unfortunately, most of the hotel rooms were full and we had to stay at a less convenient place. Next morning we vacated the room and found a better place. Another friend landed at Male on that day and joined us.

On Christmas Eve we left for Raa Meedhoo in Raa Atoll, which was our place of work. We traveled by a speed boat. We reached Raa Meedhoo in the afternoon. Next day, it was Christmas and we had lunch together. One of my friends had bought canned chicken from Male and we had it with lunch. The three of us were early. Another colleague from orissa arrived that day. The others would join us only in the first week of January.

On 26^th December, I was at my residence washing my clothes in the morning, when my two friends came rushing to inform me that the sea waves had come deep into the island near the boat jetty. They looked shocked. I couldn't understand. I was staying near the center of the island and the waves did not reach that far. Afterwards, I went to the boat jetty and noticed that the sand was wet for a long distance inland. Water had come inland and gone back. I saw that the sea level was higher than usual. Some boys were placing sacks filled with sand at the gates of their houses near the boat jetty hoping to stop the water if the waves return.

Later that day, I came to know that there was an earthquake near Indonesia which set off the Tsunami. It was the first time I heard the word ‘Tsunami’ which is a Japanese word. It seems in Japan they experience it more often. I got the news that more than two hundred thousand people had died in Indonesia, Malaysia, Thailand, Sri Lanka and India due to the Tsunami. I tried to call home to inform them that I was okay but the phone lines were disconnected. Late that night I got a call from my brother in the UK. I told him I was okay and that the Tsunami did not have much effect on our island. I asked him to call home and inform them that I was safe.

I remember seeing an Indian teacher arriving with his family after the vacation. He had two small children with him. He was carrying a lot of luggage including a new computer. Later on, I came to know that the island where he worked was flooded during the tsunami and he lost most of his belongings. Expatriates who were similarly affected were given the option to return to their country and come back after a few weeks. The beginning of the academic year was put off due to the tsunami. There was no compensation for the expatriates. Locals were given some compensation by the government. A friend who was at the State Bank of India in Male on that day told me that the sea water had entered the bank premises while he was making some transaction. Only a few islands in the Maldives were badly affected, though they are all low lying islands. Later on, I watched a program on TV in which an expert gave an explanation. He said since there are more than a thousand small islands in the Maldives, the tsunami waves were able to pass along the gaps between the islands, which resulted in less damage. We were lucky to be unaffected.

Presidents Bill Clinton and George H.W. Bush visited the Maldives in connection with relief aid. Maldivian President Gayoom received them and showed them the affected areas hoping to get as much aid as possible. A friend of mine who was at Male during that time claims to have shaken hands with both the American Presidents during their arrival.

The Red Cross provided relief supplies including food items like biscuits and canned food. They also distributed water storage tanks to households and arranged disaster management classes for some of the locals. Maldives also received a few desalination plants as aid.

RAIN WATER HARVESTING

The islands in Maldives depend on rain water. Since they are small islands surrounded by the sea, the well water is salty. Well water is used for bathing. It is also used for washing clothes and cooking utensils. Rain water is needed for cooking and drinking. When the monsoon arrives, people clean the aluminum roofs of their houses and prepare to collect the rainwater. They do not collect the water during the first few days of the rain. They let the rain clean the roof further. Some locals collect the rainwater in a bottle first to check if there are impurities from the roof. Once the water is clear enough they connect the pipe to a large storage tank. Some people use a piece of cloth between the pipe and the storage tank to act as a filter. The water collected during the rainy season usually lasts for one year, which is till the next monsoon. Every house has a large Sintex water storage tank. After the tsunami in 2004, the Red Cross donated storage tanks and almost every house had two big storage tanks.

If the rain gets delayed or if there is insufficient rain, water shortage occurs. The schools have a large number of storage tanks. If there was no water at our residence, we used to collect water from the school. Sometimes the school authorities placed restrictions on the amount of water that we can collect. A large number of students come to school every day and so their requirement for water is more.

Once there was a severe water shortage in Raa Meedhoo and I had to buy bottles of mineral water for a few weeks before the rain finally arrived. Sometimes during water shortage desalinated water was distributed among the people. We had to make arrangements to collect it in large plastic containers. The locals were given a few bottles of mineral water for free during one shortage. It was not available for expatriates. I used to drink the rainwater without boiling it. They say it is pure and safe. Some people say rainwater lacks minerals and is not good for health.

RELIGION

Maldives is a Muslim country. All the locals are Sunni Muslims. There are mosques in all the islands. There are separate mosques for men and women. They are not allowed to pray together. People wash their feet before entering the mosque. There are no places of worship for other faiths. Some old buildings resembling Hindu temples can be found in dilapidated condition on some islands. Expatriates are not allowed to bring religious articles of other faiths into the country. They are not allowed to talk about their religion or criticize Islam.

Quran class is conducted at the mosque and by some private tutors.  Children go for these classes. People are not religious fanatics but they do take their religion seriously. Conversion from Islam to another religion is not allowed. Some locals have told me that there are a few Maldivians who have become Christians but since it is illegal they keep it a secret and do not inform anybody.

A shop in Baa Eydhafushi unknowingly imported small statues of the Christian faith. They were from Thailand. It was surprising that the articles could pass through customs. They were planning to sell them but someone explained to them that these were articles of a different faith and it would be illegal to do so. They then decided to throw the statues into the sea. The expatriates, who came to know about it, approached them for it and got them for free.

During December there are no Christmas trees, Christmas cards or decorations available at the shops. When Pope John Paul II died in 2005, there was no mention of it in the local news. We saw it on BBC news. Pork and liquor are not available on islands inhabited by locals. Sometimes liquor is smuggled in from tourist resorts by those employed there. They are sold at exorbitant rates to expatriates. 

One night, while I was sitting near the beach in Raa Meedhoo, I heard drum beats. I asked a local about it. He told me that there is a function in a house and that in English you call it ‘circumstance.’ I understood he meant circumcision. It is a big event with music and party. There was a person in Raa Meedhoo who circumcised young boys who attained the required age. He was a professional who had his own speed boat to take him to other islands when required. It was rumored that he circumcised President Gayoom’s children. I was once invited to a party by a local in Baa Eydhafushi. After the party, I asked him what he was celebrating. He told me his son was circumcised.

The day Maldives accepted Islam is considered as an important day and it is marked on the academic calendar as ‘Maldives embracement to Islam.’ One year, while I was going through the academic calendar I noticed the entry as ‘Maldives embarrassment to Islam.’ Either it was a typing mistake or someone had done it on purpose. Some Muslims from India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka do not consider Maldivian Muslims as good Muslims. It is mainly due to their western lifestyle. They cannot understand why Maldivian teenagers are allowed to go on dates and marry as they like.

Once I was talking to a few local ladies at Baa Eydhafushi. They were talking about a local man who had two wives. They said he was not a good man since he was spending most of his time with the second wife and neglecting the first wife. An Indian colleague, who was with me, suggested that the first wife take a second husband. He said that if a man can have more than one wife then a woman should be able to have more than one husband. One of the local ladies said ‘Islam will not allow it.’

There was a Sri Lankan Muslim in Baa Eydhafushi who would invite for dinner any Muslim expatriate who arrived as a new recruit on the island. If any expatriate Muslim resigned or was transferred, he would again invite them for dinner and give them a send off. I could not understand why the invitation was only for Muslims.

The holy month of Ramadan starts and ends with the sighting of the moon. It is the month of fasting. Fasting begins at sunrise and ends at sunset each day for a month. During the fasting period, locals do not eat or even drink water. Sick adults and very young children are exempted from fasting. Non Muslim expatriates are not required to fast but we do not eat or even drink water in the presence of the locals during the fasting period. It is illegal for a local to eat or drink during the fasting time. They can be arrested. Some locals say fasting is difficult but some others claim it is easy.

During this month the shops are full of different kinds of meat, vegetables and fruits that are not usually sold. Dates from the Middle East are available in all the shops. At sunset, they break the fast when they hear the call from the mosque. They usually have some fruit juice first before having a meal. After midnight they have a second meal. Early morning before sunrise they have the third meal. So they do have three meals everyday but it is at night.

At the end of Ramadan there is the Eid – ul – Fitr celebration. Muslims are not permitted to fast on that day. They have a good meal. People wish each other Eid Mubarak which means Blessed Feast. Celebrations usually go on for a few days. There are stage shows with people dancing to bollywood film music. Maldivians like Hindi movies with their simple stories. They like the songs and dances too.

Each island has different traditions. In Raa Meedhoo people dress in different costumes and move around in a procession in the afternoon. It is like the carnival in Brazil. They may have been influenced by the Portuguese. At night boys covered in paper cuttings move around in a group making noise and trying to frighten people. On one day boys throw water at girls. The next day girls throw water at boys. In Baa Eydhafushi there were only the stage shows.

Some of the locals do not like the USA, though most of them do not seem to show any hatred. They were offended by US actions during the Gulf war. A computer desk top in Raa Meedhoo had a picture of the World Trade Centre on fire. A few locals distributed sweets to celebrate 9 / 11. When the space shuttle Columbia disintegrated killing seven astronauts, some locals were happy. Yet they accepted relief supplies from the west after the tsunami.

When an English Teacher gave an essay topic ‘My favorite Country ‘, almost all the students chose Saudi Arabia as their favorite country. Every family has someone who has gone to Saudi Arabia on Haj Pilgrimage.

The locals are peaceful and so violence is rare. They are honest. There is very little corruption. The surroundings are kept clean. People maintain personal cleanliness and are usually dressed well. These may be due to religious influence.

Both Raa Meedhoo and Baa Eydhafushi had a cemetery near the centre of the island. All the tombs look alike. There is no difference between rich and poor. One night after attending a party at my friends place in Raa Meedhoo, I was walking home alone at around midnight. Along the way, I had to pass the cemetery. There was a road adjacent to the wall of the cemetery. I took this road because it was a short cut. It was dark since there were no street lights here but I could see some lights on the other streets far away. Some people say they have seen ghosts in this area.

Suddenly, through the corner of my eye I saw something moving on the wall. I didn’t have it in me to stop and turn around and look at it. I just kept walking. It was moving on the wall along with me. I felt it was tracking me and waiting for an opportune moment to strike. I walked faster. It moved faster. It was scary, but soon I realized it was my shadow which was moving on the wall.